PS:1 Wiki Dev - User contributions [en]

Shopbot PRS CNC router

2014-08-22T04:42:55Z

PatrickSchless: /* Authorized Users */

{{Template:EquipmentPage
|owner = PS:One
|serial = TBD.
|certification = yes
|hackable = no
|model = Shopbot PRS
|arrived = 2014
|doesitwork = Not Yet
|contact = Elizabeth, Bart
|where = TBD
|value = $16000
|image = no
}}

== Documentation ==

[[File:Shopbotassembly.pdf]]

[[File:Squaringshopbot.pdf|Squaring the ShopBot]]

[http://www.shopbottools.com/ShopBotDocs/files/quick%20start%20guide%202013%2007%2023.pdf QuickStart]

== Authorization Checklist ==

This is here as a checklist for proctors to follow when authorizing people. It can also help remind you of things after you are authorized. Just reading this does not authorizing you.

* How to get authorized

* Authorization group size
** About 4 (each person will run a job)

* Safety
** Safety Glasses
** Hearing Protection
** Dust Protection

* What can go wrong (and what to do)

* How does machine work
** Axes
** Motors
** Spindle

* Daily Maintenance
** Spindle bearing warm up.
*** The "C5" warm up routine should be run on the first job of the day. It runs the spindle at 3 speeds for 3 minutes each to warm up the bearings. (When it doubt, warm it up)

* Extended Maintenance
** Grease the racks
** Use Grease type: TBD

* Machine Control
** Turn on sequence
*** Log into computer
*** Turn on Shopbot big red and yellow twist switch (see zeroing below)
*** Insert Key and turn to "engaged" position.
*** The VDF should light up, the spindle fan should be on.
*** Start "Shopbot 3" program.
*** Open Tools...Spindle RPM Control menu (to allow RPM control)
**** Make sure collet is tightened or no tool or nut is installed
**** Run the C5 warm up routine
** Jogging
*** Keypad
*** Arrow Keys + Page Up, Page Down(ctrl for fast jog)

* CAM Software
** Vectric V Carve
** Just the basics...separate class for advanced V Carve.
** On line videos

* Running your Job
** Zeroing X & Y
*** With machine off slow push gantry towards X0 until it hits hard stops (optional)
*** Turn on big red switch while still holding gantry.
*** Jog machine away from X0 Y0 so machine will find switches
*** Click X, Y zero button.
** Zeroing Z (top of work piece)
*** Jog over your work piece
*** Place Z zero plate on work piece under the bit
*** Place clip on bit
*** Test connection by touching plate to bit and watch for light #1 to light
*** Click the Z 0 button (it will touch off twice!!!)

* Waste Board and clamping

* Collets, Bits, Feeds and Speeds
** Collets
*** We currently have collets for 1/2, 1/4, 3/16 and 1/8" shank bits.
*** Try to keep them clean and store them away from dust between uses. Dust between the gaps will produce runout.
** Bits
*** Use bits designed for the material you are cutting. Don't just steal a bits from the Bridgeport. They won't do a good job and will probably overheat.
*** For cutting out things, use the smallest appropriate bit. Using a 1/2" bit to cutout will just create a lot of mess.

* ShopBot should not be used for...
** Metals other than aluminum
** Ripping lumber

* How to leave the machine (be excellent)
** Machine
*** Home the machine to X0, Y0
*** Turn off both switches
*** Remove Key
*** Remove bit and collet.
*** Place both collet wrenches on top of electronics box
*** clean up work area
*** Smooth out waste board if you puckered it at all.

** Post a picture please :-)

== Pre-Flight Checklist ==
* Did you home the machine?
* Is the dust collect gate open?
* Are you sure you have the right X, Y orientation for your file and material?
* Did you set the proper X,Y zero for your work piece on the Shopbot.
* Is the correct bit installed and tight?
* Is the key in and turned on?
* Is the dust skirt set right so it does not get smashed.
* Is Z zero set to the work top?
* Is the touch plate and clip returned.
* Is the material properly secured
* Safety glasses, hearing protection on.
* Start the job with the E-Stop ready to hit.
* Turn on dust collector ( I like to wait so I can hear that things sound right on the shopbot before turning on the collector)

== Authorized Users ==
{| class="wikitable" border="1"
! Qualified Member
! Trained By
|-
|Elizabeth Koprucki
|Danger Committee
|-
|Bart Dring
|Danger Committee
|-
|Ryan Pierce
|Danger Committee
|-
|Nathan Ellis
|Danger Committee
|-
|Michael Skilton
|Bart
|-
|Arturo Duarte
|Bart
|-
|Derek Bever
|Bart
|-
|Everett
|Bart
|-
|Vincent Colombo
|Bart
|-
|[[User:justin|Justin T. Conroy]]
|Bart
|-
|Hugh Sato
|Bart
|-
|Sergey Nekrasov
|Bart
|-
|Valerie Moore
|Bart
|-
|Patrick Schless
|Bart
|}

[[Category:Fabrication]]
[[Category:CNC]]

Forge

2014-08-21T03:46:40Z

PatrickSchless:

{{Template:EquipmentPage|owner=Adrianna McKinley
|model=Forge
|serial=N/A|arrived=??
|doesitwork= yes
|contact= Adrianna McKinley
|where=Hot Metals Area
|certification=yes
|hackable=no|value=??
|image = None}}

The Forge is currently owned by Adrianna and is on loan to the Hot Metals Area along with the following black smithing equipment:

Anvil
Standing Vice
Sledge Hammer

== How to get certified ==

Adrianna (owner) or Tom Judge (Hot metals area host) can certify you. The following will be covered in the certification:

;How to light and turn off the forge.
* To turn on go from "fuel to flame"
# Connect your propane tank.
# Make sure the cutoff switch on top of the burner is turned to off.
# Brick up the back and place front brick into the arms on the front of the forge.
# Open up the fuel tank completely.
# Open up the regulator (green knob near the propane tank end of the fuel line).
# Open up the air mix washer to allow more air in.
# Have your light lit and ready to go at the side of the forge (also recommend to stand to the side of the forge when lighting).
# Slowly open the cutoff.
# Once the burner ignites, open the cutoff all the way open.
# Run the forge high for a few minutes to warm it up. Then you can close down the air mix to the point where you have a strong torch going (if you have flames rolling up out of the forge you have choked the torch- open up the air mix a little more)

* To turn off go from "flame to fuel"
# Turn the cutoff switch to off.
# Close the tank all the way.
# Bleed the line by opening the cutoff switch (be careful as a small flame will pop out the air mix washer) until it is empty.
# Disconnect your tank and plug the hose into the Hot Metal Area tank (the hose must never be left unplugged in).

== Important Information Regarding the Forge ==

# Carbon Steel '''ONLY'''! No other material can be placed in the forge.
# '''NO''' galvanized, painted, or otherwise coated steel in the forge.
# '''NEVER''' use borax or any other type of flux in the forge. You will ruin the bottom of the forge.
# '''Do NOT''' turn the forge up too high - just turn it up high enough for the work you need to do. '''NO forge welding temperatures'''.
# '''Do NOT''' poke the sides or back of the forge with your piece. The back hole is slightly higher than the bottom firebrick - please gently place your piece in and then rest it down on the bottom of the forge.
# Make sure the fuel line is '''NEVER''' touching the side of the forge.
# If the torch is sputtering there is something wrong. Try to give it a little more air and more fuel. If that doesn't work, you might be low on fuel. If it continues sputtering turn it off and alert the Area Host.
# Always assume the forge, any nearby tools, and the surrounding area is hot.

== Helpful Hints ==

# Directly under the torch is the hottest place in the forge - if you want something heated fast, place it there.
# Your steel will be as hot as it can be when it nearly matches the color of the forge around it.
# Try not to leave tools next to the forge when it is on - they will get very hot.
# Keep your tools cool by quenching often.
# Try to use the least amount of air mix you can while not choking the torch.
# If you have a question or something seems off - contact the area host or Adrianna.

== List of Currently Certified Users ==

{| class="wikitable" border="1"
! Qualified Member
! Trained By
|-
|Adrianna McKinley
|Built Forge
|-
|[[user:kuroishi|Doorman Dave]]
|Adrianna McKinley
|-
|[[user:Toba|Eric Stein]]
|Adrianna McKinley
|-
|[[user:PatrickSchless|Patrick Schless]]
|Adrianna McKinley
|}

Epilog 30w Mini 24 Laser Engraver

2013-05-15T04:52:07Z

PatrickSchless: /* List of Currently Certified Users */

[[Category:Electronics Equipment]]
[[Category:CNC]]
[[Category:Fabrication]]

{{Template:EquipmentPage |owner=PS:One |model=Mini 24 |serial=SERIAL NUMBER |arrived=6/29/2011 |doesitwork=WORKING |contact=Colin Parsons |where=Shock Shop |certification=yes |hackable=no |value=$15,000 |itemphoto=[[File:Epilog_fired_the_laser.jpg|200px]]}} 

This machine: http://www.epiloglaser.com/mini24_overview.htm

Manual for this machine: http://www.epiloglaser.com/downloads/pdf/mini_helix_4.22.10.pdf

[[laser settings|Settings for various materials]]

[[Laser Cutter Instructions and Workflow]]

[[Laser cutter reservation system]]

== '''NEVER CUT THESE MATERIALS''' ==

*'''PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride):''' Also known as '''"vinyl"''' '''"pleather"''' or '''"artificial leather."''' Most adhesive vinyl shelf paper (e.g. Con-Tact Paper) also is PVC. Emits pure chlorine gas when cut! Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, cause the metal of the machine to corrode, and ruin the motion control system.
*'''Polycarbonate:''' Also known as '''"Lexan."''' Polycarbonate is also often found as flat, sheet material. The case cover window on the laser cutter is made of Polycarbonate because polycarbonate strongly absorbs infrared radiation! This is the frequency of light the laser cutter uses to cut materials, so it is very ineffective at cutting polycarbonate. Polycarbonate can also emit flame and chlorine gas when cut, making it a poor choice for laser cutting.
*'''ABS:''' ABS does not cut well in a laser cutter. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the vector cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt). Finally, ABS emits cyanide when cut.
*'''HDPE:''' "milk bottle" plastic. It melts. It gets gooey. It catches on fire. Don't use it.
*'''PolyStyrene Foam:''' It catches fire, it melts, and only thin pieces cut. This is the #1 material that causes laser fires!!!
*'''Fiberglass:''' It's a mix of two materials that can't be cut. Glass (etch, no cut) and epoxy resin (fumes)
*'''Coated Carbon Fiber:''' Again, it's a mix of two materials. Thin carbon fiber mat can be cut, with some fraying. However, once coated with epoxy it will emit noxious fumes.

==Safe Materials==
The laser can cut or etch. The materials that the laser can cut materials like wood, paper, cork, and some kinds of plastics. Etching can be done on almost anything, wood, cardboard, aluminum, stainless steel, plastic, marble, stone, tile, and glass.
*Cutting
**Many woods up to 1/4" thick. Composite woods like plywood contain glue, and may not laser cut as well as solid wood. Engineered woods like MDF are okay to use but may experience a higher amount of charring when cut. Be very careful about cutting oily woods, or very resinous woods as they also may catch fire.
**Paper cuts very very well on the laser cutter, and also very quickly. Thin paper and single layer card stock and cardboard are perfectly OK. Thicker cardboard, carton, and other papers also cut very well but need to be watched to make sure they don't catch fire.
**Cork cuts nicely, but the quality of the cut depends on the thickness and quality of the cork. Engineered cork has a lot of glue in it, and may not cut as well. Cork thicker than 1/4" should be avoided.
**Acrylic (also known as Lucite, Plexiglas, PMMA) cuts extremely well on the laser cutter, leaving a beautifully polished edge. With care, acrylic material up to 1/2" thick can be cut on the laser cutter.
**Delrin (POM) in thin sheets does cut. Delrin comes in a number of shore strengths (hardness) and the harder delrin tends to work better. Great for gears!
**Kapton tape (Polyimide) : Works well, in thin sheets and strips like tape. 1/16" thick is about as thick as you can cut reliably.
**Mylar : Works well if it's thin. Once you get too far past 1/16" thick mylar has a tendency to warp, bubble, and curl. Gold coated mylar will not work.
**Solid Styrene : Smokes a lot when cut, but can be cut. Keep it thin (1/16")
**Depron foam: Used a lot for hobby, RC aircraft, architectural models, and toys. 1/4" cuts nicely, with a smooth edge. Must be constantly monitored when cutting.
**Gator foam: foam core gets burned and eaten away compared to the top and bottom hard paper shell. Not a fantastic thing to cut, but it can be cut if watched.
**Cloth (leather, suede, felt, hemp, cotton, polyester, but NEVER vinyl or pleather-- see above) They all cut well. Leather is very hard to cut, but can be if it's thinner than a belt (call it 1/8")
**Magnetic Sheet material cuts beautifully
**NON-CHLORINE containing rubber is fine for cutting.
**Teflon (PTFE) in thin sheets
**Carbon fiber mats/weave that has not yet had epoxy applied can be cut, very slowly. You must not cut carbon fiber that has been coated!!
*Etching
All the above can be etched, in some cases very deeply. In addition, you can etch:
**Glass (green seems to work best) .. looks sandblasted. Only FLAT GLASS can be engraved in our cutter. No round or cylindrical items.
**Ceramic tile
**Anodized aluminum ( vaporizes the anodization away )
**Painted/coated metals ( vaporizes the paint away )
**Stone : Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx. Gets a white "textured" look when etched
*Marking
There expensive coating called 'cermark'. This marking compound costs $100 for a small bottle, and must be diluted with ethanol and applied to metal (not ceramics or stone) before being etched to leave behind a permanent dark black mark.

=== Material sources ===
* [http://www.inventables.com Inventables] for acrylic
* [http://www.abbeyspecialties.com/ Abbey Specialties] for acrylic in varied sizes, this company is our landlord. They are in the other half of our building and if you ask they can drop off in our shared loading dock.

==General references==

parametric pdf box creator: http://boxmaker.rahulbotics.com/

parametric svg box creator: http://www.giplt.nl/svg/
(load > construction category > better box)

Ladyada's info on the proper application of laser beams: http://www.ladyada.net/wiki/laserinfo/equipment

Information on materials that can and can't be cut: http://www.pololu.com/docs/0J24/3

paramateric living hinge generator: http://www.ashanan.com/hinges/
(code at: https://github.com/ashanan/hinges)

python svg library written by [[User:toba|Toba]]: https://github.com/eastein/svgcuts

parametric flexbox generator: http://flexbox.herokuapp.com/

http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/08/how-to-lasercut-custom-bo.html - Laser cut boxes 

[[:Image:psone-logo-cutout.svg|PS:One Logo]] 

==Long-ass list of laser designs on Thingiverse==
[http://www.thingiverse.com/tool:33/things All laser cutter things on Thingiverse] 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2321 - Theo Janssen 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2073 - Drill gauge 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:247 - Hex connector toy 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1960 - 2010 hex desktop calendar 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2023 - clock 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1739 - shoe hanger 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1616 - geneva wheel 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:201 - Square gears 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1521 - Gyroscope 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1393 - End mill set holder 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1203 - 608 bearing wrapper + face 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:952 - Small box 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:981 - cable chain 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:855 - Chess set 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20 - Chess set 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3353 - Chess board with compass rose inlay 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:587 - gEarrings 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3411 - gearcuffs 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:807 - Mystery box 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:516 - tumbler, key, and case 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:409 - Resistor lead tool 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:211 - Planetary gear business card 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53 - planetary gears 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3021 - Scale mail 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5265 - Peristaltic pump 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5243 - laser cut tetris blocks 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5076 - Wire spool holder 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5727 - Settlers of Catan 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5730 - Teardrop pendant light 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7796 - Gear coasters 

==Software Compatability==

Note: this indicates success in using this software with the printer driver, not general capabilities about the software itself.

{| border=1
|-
! Software type
! Manufacturer
! File extensions
! Raster (engraving)
! Vector (cutting)
! Other notes
|-
| CorelDraw
| [http://www.corel.com Corel]
| cbr
| yes
| yes
| not available on machine
|-
| Illustrator
| [http://www.adobe.com Adobe]
| ai, eps, pdf
| yes
| yes
| available on machine
|-
| Photoshop
| [http://www.adobe.com Adobe]
| eps, pdf
| yes
| yes
|
|-
| Inkscape
| Open Source
|
| yes
| no
| save as PDF, then print from Acrobat for vector
|}

== List of Currently Certified Users ==

This list is hugely incomplete because nobody was doing it. Someone should fix that eventually... for now, new certs should go in here. If you are certified and remember who certified you, go ahead and add yourself. Your non-presence on this list is not intended to insult you or your relatives.

{| class="wikitable" border="1"
! Qualified Member
! Trained By
! Username on Laser Computer
|-
|Will McShane
|Danger Committee
|Will McShane
|-
|Eric Stein
|Will McShane
|Eric Stein
|-
|Patrick Schless
|Will McShane
|Patrick Schless
|}

Epilog 30w Mini 24 Laser Engraver

2013-05-15T04:52:07Z

PatrickSchless: /* List of Currently Certified Users */