Talk:LulzBot AO-100 3D Printer - Revision history

Rtystgeeke: Rtystgeeke moved page Talk:LulzBot A0-100 3D Printer to Talk:LulzBot AO-100 3D Printer

2016-05-02T14:05:01Z

Rtystgeeke moved page Talk:LulzBot A0-100 3D Printer to Talk:LulzBot AO-100 3D Printer

← Older revision	Revision as of 14:05, 2 May 2016
(No difference)

Rtystgeeke: Rtystgeeke moved page Talk:LulzBot 3D Printer to Talk:LulzBot A0-100 3D Printer

2016-05-02T14:03:37Z

Rtystgeeke moved page Talk:LulzBot 3D Printer to Talk:LulzBot A0-100 3D Printer

← Older revision	Revision as of 14:03, 2 May 2016
(No difference)

Proxycase: /* Dead link */

2015-02-12T20:12:55Z

Dead link

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:12, 12 February 2015
Line 45:		Line 45:


		⚫	'''Fixed dead config link with updated config file! 2/12/2015
	== Dead link ==
			'''

	During several automated bot runs the following external link was found to be unavailable. Please check if the link is in fact down and fix or remove it in that case!

	* http://downloads.lulzbot.com/lulzbot/AO-100/software/2013-Q1/configs/slic3r/alessandro/
	** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-01-28 06:01:21, 404 Not Found
	** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-01-29 06:01:33, 404 Not Found
	** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-01-30 06:01:25, 404 Not Found
	** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-01-31 06:01:16, 404 Not Found
	** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-02-01 06:02:29, 404 Not Found
	** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-02-02 06:02:21, 404 Not Found
	** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-02-03 06:01:58, 404 Not Found
	** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-02-04 06:02:34, 404 Not Found
	--[[User:Wikibot\|Wikibot]] ([[User talk:Wikibot\|talk]]) 00:02, 4 February 2015 (CST)

⚫	Fixed dead link with updated config file! 2/12/2015

Proxycase: /* Dead link */

2015-02-12T20:12:35Z

Dead link

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:12, 12 February 2015
Line 59:		Line 59:
	** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-02-04 06:02:34, 404 Not Found		** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-02-04 06:02:34, 404 Not Found
	--[[User:Wikibot\|Wikibot]] ([[User talk:Wikibot\|talk]]) 00:02, 4 February 2015 (CST)		--[[User:Wikibot\|Wikibot]] ([[User talk:Wikibot\|talk]]) 00:02, 4 February 2015 (CST)

			Fixed dead link with updated config file! 2/12/2015

Wikibot: Bot: Cosmetic changes

2015-02-05T06:00:27Z

Bot: Cosmetic changes

Wikibot: → Bot: Reporting unavailable external link

2015-02-04T06:02:41Z

→ Bot: Reporting unavailable external link

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:02, 4 February 2015
Line 42:		Line 42:

	-Tighten the wing nut if the reel sags, ears hit the frame of the lulzbot itself when rotating.		-Tighten the wing nut if the reel sags, ears hit the frame of the lulzbot itself when rotating.



			== Dead link ==

			During several automated bot runs the following external link was found to be unavailable. Please check if the link is in fact down and fix or remove it in that case!

			* http://downloads.lulzbot.com/lulzbot/AO-100/software/2013-Q1/configs/slic3r/alessandro/
			** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-01-28 06:01:21, 404 Not Found
			** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-01-29 06:01:33, 404 Not Found
			** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-01-30 06:01:25, 404 Not Found
			** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-01-31 06:01:16, 404 Not Found
			** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-02-01 06:02:29, 404 Not Found
			** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-02-02 06:02:21, 404 Not Found
			** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-02-03 06:01:58, 404 Not Found
			** In [[LulzBot 3D Printer]] on 2015-02-04 06:02:34, 404 Not Found
			--[[User:Wikibot\|Wikibot]] ([[User talk:Wikibot\|talk]]) 00:02, 4 February 2015 (CST)

Emaxon at 01:05, 17 January 2014

2014-01-17T01:05:58Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:05, 17 January 2014
Line 6:		Line 6:

	If you can't control this factor, try the following slicer settings:		If you can't control this factor, try the following slicer settings:


	-Keep the speed of gap-filling to a maximum of 20mm/sec.		-Keep the speed of gap-filling to a maximum of 20mm/sec.

	-In slicer's "printer" tab, under advanced settings, set the "vibration limit" frequency to 15hz. (This will force movement to slow down for these bone-shaking gap fills if 20mm/s isn't slow enough.)		-In slicer's "printer" tab, under advanced settings, set the "vibration limit" frequency to 15hz. (This will force movement to slow down for these bone-shaking gap fills if 20mm/s isn't slow enough.)



	COOLING is now a reality, allowing tiny shapes to be printed without melting into goo.		COOLING is now a reality, allowing tiny shapes to be printed without melting into goo.
	If your model tapers at any point to a small surface area, such that a single layer would take <60s to print at the speed you've chosen, (let's say anything 3cm^2 or smaller than a nickel,) make sure to enable the following cooling settings in slicer's filament tab for good results:		If your model tapers at any point to a small surface area, such that a single layer would take <60s to print at the speed you've chosen, (let's say anything 3cm^2 or smaller than a nickel,) make sure to enable the following cooling settings in slicer's filament tab for good results:


	-Check the "enable cooling" box.		-Check the "enable cooling" box.
Line 25:		Line 29:

	-Minimum printing speed = 3mm/s (This is VERY slow, but that's what it took to get a point on a pyramid, even with the fan at full-blast.)		-Minimum printing speed = 3mm/s (This is VERY slow, but that's what it took to get a point on a pyramid, even with the fan at full-blast.)



	The table is a full house now, with 3 printers... No more room for those silly extension cord reels. Please mind the following for loading filament:		The table is a full house now, with 3 printers... No more room for those silly extension cord reels. Please mind the following for loading filament:


	-If you need to switch filament, please carefully stow the mounted skein by wrapping it with string, zip ties, (please, no sticky tape,) so it doesn't unravel, and use the built-in filament reel.		-If you need to switch filament, please carefully stow the mounted skein by wrapping it with string, zip ties, (please, no sticky tape,) so it doesn't unravel, and use the built-in filament reel.

Emaxon at 01:03, 17 January 2014

2014-01-17T01:03:53Z

Emaxon: Created page with "Status, issues as of 1/15/2014: Occasional issues with missed steps, apparent binding in the Y-axis, (leading to a model skewed / stepped in the y-axis,) seem to be due to ra..."

2014-01-17T01:02:55Z

Created page with "Status, issues as of 1/15/2014: Occasional issues with missed steps, apparent binding in the Y-axis, (leading to a model skewed / stepped in the y-axis,) seem to be due to ra..."

New page

Status, issues as of 1/15/2014:

Occasional issues with missed steps, apparent binding in the Y-axis, (leading to a model skewed / stepped in the y-axis,) seem to be due to rapid oscillation of the stepper motor during high-speed gap-filling causing missed steps, NOT because of any bearing binding. (The motor can only reverse direction so fast, and has very little torque when asked to do so too fast, so it never completes the move, the carriage ends up not being where it's supposed to be.)

The best bet is to minimize gap filling altogether by planning wall thickness of your model based on extrusion width, so that you have a round number of layers in horizontal shells.

If you can't control this factor, try the following slicer settings:

-Keep the speed of gap-filling to a maximum of 20mm/sec.
-In slicer's "printer" tab, under advanced settings, set the "vibration limit" frequency to 15hz. (This will force movement to slow down for these bone-shaking gap fills if 20mm/s isn't slow enough.)

COOLING is now a reality, allowing tiny shapes to be printed without melting into goo.
If your model tapers at any point to a small surface area, such that a single layer would take <60s to print at the speed you've chosen, (let's say anything 3cm^2 or smaller than a nickel,) make sure to enable the following cooling settings in slicer's filament tab for good results:

-Check the "enable cooling" box.
-Min fan speed 60%, max fan speed 100%. (The fan is unlikely to start if fed <60% power.)
-Disable fan for first layer, (so it doesn't spoil adhesion to the bed.)
-Enable fan if layer time <60s
-Slow printing speed if layer time <30s
-Minimum printing speed = 3mm/s (This is VERY slow, but that's what it took to get a point on a pyramid, even with the fan at full-blast.)

The table is a full house now, with 3 printers... No more room for those silly extension cord reels. Please mind the following for loading filament:

-If you need to switch filament, please carefully stow the mounted skein by wrapping it with string, zip ties, (please, no sticky tape,) so it doesn't unravel, and use the built-in filament reel.
-Please mind that the ears of the reel don't bump into the TAZ as they rotate.
-Filament must wind off of the skein from the BOTTOM to feed nicely into the tube, and allow the pull of the extruder to rotate the reel as it should.
-Tighten the wing nut if the reel sags, ears hit the frame of the lulzbot itself when rotating.

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:00, 5 February 2015
Line 1:		Line 1:
	Status, issues as of 1/15/2014:		Status, issues as of 1/15/2014:

	Occasional issues with missed steps, apparent binding in the Y-axis, (leading to a model skewed / stepped in the y-axis,) seem to be due to rapid oscillation of the stepper motor during high-speed gap-filling causing missed steps, NOT because of any bearing binding. (The motor can only reverse direction so fast, and has very little torque when asked to do so too fast, so it never completes the move, the carriage ends up not being where it's supposed to be.)		Occasional issues with missed steps, apparent binding in the Y-axis, (leading to a model skewed / stepped in the y-axis,) seem to be due to rapid oscillation of the stepper motor during high-speed gap-filling causing missed steps, NOT because of any bearing binding. (The motor can only reverse direction so fast, and has very little torque when asked to do so too fast, so it never completes the move, the carriage ends up not being where it's supposed to be.)

	The best bet is to minimize gap filling altogether by planning wall thickness of your model based on extrusion width, so that you have a round number of layers in horizontal shells.		The best bet is to minimize gap filling altogether by planning wall thickness of your model based on extrusion width, so that you have a round number of layers in horizontal shells.
Line 10:		Line 10:
	-Keep the speed of gap-filling to a maximum of 20mm/sec.		-Keep the speed of gap-filling to a maximum of 20mm/sec.

	-In slicer's "printer" tab, under advanced settings, set the "vibration limit" frequency to 15hz. (This will force movement to slow down for these bone-shaking gap fills if 20mm/s isn't slow enough.)		-In slicer's "printer" tab, under advanced settings, set the "vibration limit" frequency to 15hz. (This will force movement to slow down for these bone-shaking gap fills if 20mm/s isn't slow enough.)



	COOLING is now a reality, allowing tiny shapes to be printed without melting into goo.		COOLING is now a reality, allowing tiny shapes to be printed without melting into goo.
	If your model tapers at any point to a small surface area, such that a single layer would take <60s to print at the speed you've chosen, (let's say anything 3cm^2 or smaller than a nickel,) make sure to enable the following cooling settings in slicer's filament tab for good results:		If your model tapers at any point to a small surface area, such that a single layer would take <60s to print at the speed you've chosen, (let's say anything 3cm^2 or smaller than a nickel,) make sure to enable the following cooling settings in slicer's filament tab for good results:

Line 20:		Line 20:
	-Check the "enable cooling" box.		-Check the "enable cooling" box.

	-Min fan speed 60%, max fan speed 100%. (The fan is unlikely to start if fed <60% power.)		-Min fan speed 60%, max fan speed 100%. (The fan is unlikely to start if fed <60% power.)

	-Disable fan for first layer, (so it doesn't spoil adhesion to the bed.)		-Disable fan for first layer, (so it doesn't spoil adhesion to the bed.)
Line 28:		Line 28:
	-Slow printing speed if layer time <30s		-Slow printing speed if layer time <30s

	-Minimum printing speed = 3mm/s (This is VERY slow, but that's what it took to get a point on a pyramid, even with the fan at full-blast.)		-Minimum printing speed = 3mm/s (This is VERY slow, but that's what it took to get a point on a pyramid, even with the fan at full-blast.)



	The table is a full house now, with 3 printers... No more room for those silly extension cord reels. Please mind the following for loading filament:		The table is a full house now, with 3 printers... No more room for those silly extension cord reels. Please mind the following for loading filament:


	-If you need to switch filament, please carefully stow the mounted skein by wrapping it with string, zip ties, (please, no sticky tape,) so it doesn't unravel, and use the built-in filament reel.		-If you need to switch filament, please carefully stow the mounted skein by wrapping it with string, zip ties, (please, no sticky tape,) so it doesn't unravel, and use the built-in filament reel.

	-Please mind that the ears of the reel don't bump into the TAZ as they rotate.		-Please mind that the ears of the reel don't bump into the TAZ as they rotate.

	-Filament must wind off of the skein from the BOTTOM to feed nicely into the tube, and allow the pull of the extruder to rotate the reel as it should.		-Filament must wind off of the skein from the BOTTOM to feed nicely into the tube, and allow the pull of the extruder to rotate the reel as it should.

	-Tighten the wing nut if the reel sags, ears hit the frame of the lulzbot itself when rotating.		-Tighten the wing nut if the reel sags, ears hit the frame of the lulzbot itself when rotating.

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:03, 17 January 2014
Line 8:		Line 8:

	-Keep the speed of gap-filling to a maximum of 20mm/sec.		-Keep the speed of gap-filling to a maximum of 20mm/sec.

	-In slicer's "printer" tab, under advanced settings, set the "vibration limit" frequency to 15hz. (This will force movement to slow down for these bone-shaking gap fills if 20mm/s isn't slow enough.)		-In slicer's "printer" tab, under advanced settings, set the "vibration limit" frequency to 15hz. (This will force movement to slow down for these bone-shaking gap fills if 20mm/s isn't slow enough.)

Line 14:		Line 15:

	-Check the "enable cooling" box.		-Check the "enable cooling" box.

	-Min fan speed 60%, max fan speed 100%. (The fan is unlikely to start if fed <60% power.)		-Min fan speed 60%, max fan speed 100%. (The fan is unlikely to start if fed <60% power.)

	-Disable fan for first layer, (so it doesn't spoil adhesion to the bed.)		-Disable fan for first layer, (so it doesn't spoil adhesion to the bed.)

	-Enable fan if layer time <60s		-Enable fan if layer time <60s

	-Slow printing speed if layer time <30s		-Slow printing speed if layer time <30s

	-Minimum printing speed = 3mm/s (This is VERY slow, but that's what it took to get a point on a pyramid, even with the fan at full-blast.)		-Minimum printing speed = 3mm/s (This is VERY slow, but that's what it took to get a point on a pyramid, even with the fan at full-blast.)

Line 23:		Line 29:

	-If you need to switch filament, please carefully stow the mounted skein by wrapping it with string, zip ties, (please, no sticky tape,) so it doesn't unravel, and use the built-in filament reel.		-If you need to switch filament, please carefully stow the mounted skein by wrapping it with string, zip ties, (please, no sticky tape,) so it doesn't unravel, and use the built-in filament reel.

	-Please mind that the ears of the reel don't bump into the TAZ as they rotate.		-Please mind that the ears of the reel don't bump into the TAZ as they rotate.

	-Filament must wind off of the skein from the BOTTOM to feed nicely into the tube, and allow the pull of the extruder to rotate the reel as it should.		-Filament must wind off of the skein from the BOTTOM to feed nicely into the tube, and allow the pull of the extruder to rotate the reel as it should.

	-Tighten the wing nut if the reel sags, ears hit the frame of the lulzbot itself when rotating.		-Tighten the wing nut if the reel sags, ears hit the frame of the lulzbot itself when rotating.